To insert: Remove screws and plexi cover. 40 pin header goes on the side with fewer of the tall female headers. Be careful of the 1 pin header right next to the 40 pins and the row of single pins on the opposite side. Replace screws, the 2 on the HDMI port side go through the IO board.
ONLY USE VGA JUMPER IF YOU KNOW YOU NEED IT.
BOM at the GitHub Repo.
Build notes:
According to the schematic, P6, P5, P2, and D2 are not included. Only pins 1, 2, and 3-8 on P7 are connected.
P5 controls the LEDs on the board and are connected by default. There is a trace to cut on the bottom of the board to disable the LEDs which can then be re-enabled either with a jumper on P5 or a switch. This is left unpopulated.
P8 can be used with a jumper to put voltage on pin 9 of the VGA port. Do not use this unless you know what you are doing as some VGA monitors ground pin 9.
From the Github:
Convenient order of manual soldering:
(THT parts are in order of height from shortest to tallest to facilitate flipping)
- resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistor
- SD socket
- buttons
- Headphone Jack, fan header, SOG switch
- P3 and P4 connectors
- I2S and VGA PWR headers (optional)
- LED 1-3
- LED4 is bent and locked into place, and VGA and USB3 connectors lock into place.
- P1
- P7, P9
- Fan
- Remove sticker
- Desolder cable
- Cut cable to length, strip, tin
- Reconnect cable (red goes on the right)
- Replace sticker
- Push nuts into the 3 spots on the fan that will get screws
- Connect fan and screw in from the bottom, pulling the nuts the rest of the way into the fan holes.
P7, P9 Notes
- Cut connector to 8 pins
- Remove 3rd pin (use for P9)
- Insert pins through IO board into DE10-Nano
- Solder from top
- Trim pins flush
P7:
P9:
And finally, here are the orientations of the LEDs, tantalum capacitors, and diode:
Tinkerplunk 